Contact Allergy to Shellac. Retrospective Cross-Sectional Study With Data From the Spanish Registry of Research in Contact Dermatitis and Cutaneous Allergy (REIDAC) / Alergia de contacto a shellac. Estudio transversal retrospectivo con datos del Registro Español de Investigación en Dermatitis de Contacto y Alergia Cutánea (REIDAC)

Introduction Shellac is a known allergen present mainly in cosmetics used on the eyelids and lips, although new sources of exposure have recently been described. Our objective was to assess the use of shellac as a contact allergen in Spain and the clinical profile of patients allergic to shellac. Methods This retrospective cross-sectional study included patients patch tested for shellac between 2018 and 2021 from the Spanish Registry of Contact Dermatitis and Cutaneous Allergy (REIDAC). Results A total of 980 patients were patch tested for shellac (20% in ethanol), and 37 (3.77%, 95% confidence interval [CI], 2.58–3.97%) showed positive results. Most of these patients were tested for shellac due to a suspicion of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Seven patients with present relevance were found, five with relation to cosmetics, and the other two with an occupational background of food handling. The reaction index for shellac was 0.51 and the positivity ratio was 67.56% (95% CI, 52.48–82.65%). Conclusions Shellac appears to be a prevalent allergen in patients with suspected contact dermatitis related with cosmetics or foodstuff. However, further studies are needed to validate its use in other patients (AU)

El shellac es un alérgeno conocido por su presencia en cosméticos para labios y párpados, aunque en los últimos años se han descrito nuevas fuentes de exposición. El objetivo de nuestro trabajo fue evaluar cómo se está usando el shellac, como alérgeno de contacto en España, y las características clínicas de los pacientes alérgicos al shellac. Métodos Se realizó un estudio retrospectivo transversal con los pacientes incluidos en el Registro Español de Dermatitis de Contacto y Alergia Cutánea en los que se realizaron pruebas epicutáneas con shellac desde 2018 a 2021. Resultados El shellac (20% en etanol) fue usado en 980 pacientes, con resultados positivos en 37 de ellos (3,77%; intervalo de confianza [IC] del 95%: 2,58-3,97%). La mayoría de estos pacientes realizaron las pruebas epicutáneas por una sospecha de dermatitis de contacto por cosméticos. Se encontraron 7 pacientes con una relevancia presente, 5 de ellos en relación con el uso de cosméticos, y los otros 2 fueron dermatitis de contacto ocupacionales en el contexto de la manipulación de alimentos. El índice de reacción para el shellac fue del 0,51% y la ratio de positividad del 67,56% (IC 95%: 52,48-82,65%). Conclusiones El shellac parece un alérgeno frecuente en los pacientes con sospecha de dermatitis de contacto por cosméticos o alimentos. Sin embargo, se necesitan más estudios para validar su uso en otros pacientes (AU)

[Artículo traducido] Alergia de contacto a shellac. Estudio transversal retrospectivo con datos del Registro Español de Investigación en Dermatitis de Contacto y Alergia Cutánea (REIDAC) / Contact Allergy to Shellac. Retrospective Cross-Sectional Study With Data From the Spanish Registry of Research in Contact Dermatitis and Cutaneous Allergy (REIDAC)

El shellac es un alérgeno conocido por su presencia en cosméticos para labios y párpados, aunque en los últimos años se han descrito nuevas fuentes de exposición. El objetivo de nuestro trabajo fue evaluar cómo se está usando el shellac, como alérgeno de contacto en España, y las características clínicas de los pacientes alérgicos al shellac. Métodos Se realizó un estudio retrospectivo transversal con los pacientes incluidos en el Registro Español de Dermatitis de Contacto y Alergia Cutánea en los que se realizaron pruebas epicutáneas con shellac desde 2018 a 2021. Resultados El shellac (20% en etanol) fue usado en 980 pacientes, con resultados positivos en 37 de ellos (3,77%; intervalo de confianza [IC] del 95%: 2,58-3,97%). La mayoría de estos pacientes realizaron las pruebas epicutáneas por una sospecha de dermatitis de contacto por cosméticos. Se encontraron 7 pacientes con una relevancia presente, 5 de ellos en relación con el uso de cosméticos, y los otros 2 fueron dermatitis de contacto ocupacionales en el contexto de la manipulación de alimentos. El índice de reacción para el shellac fue del 0,51% y la ratio de positividad del 67,56% (IC 95%: 52,48-82,65%). Conclusiones El shellac parece un alérgeno frecuente en los pacientes con sospecha de dermatitis de contacto por cosméticos o alimentos. Sin embargo, se necesitan más estudios para validar su uso en otros pacientes (AU)

Introduction Shellac is a known allergen present mainly in cosmetics used on the eyelids and lips, although new sources of exposure have recently been described. Our objective was to assess the use of shellac as a contact allergen in Spain and the clinical profile of patients allergic to shellac. Methods This retrospective cross-sectional study included patients patch tested for shellac between 2018 and 2021 from the Spanish Registry of Contact Dermatitis and Cutaneous Allergy (REIDAC). Results A total of 980 patients were patch tested for shellac (20% in ethanol), and 37 (3.77%, 95% confidence interval [CI], 2.58–3.97%) showed positive results. Most of these patients were tested for shellac due to a suspicion of cosmetic contact dermatitis. Seven patients with present relevance were found, five with relation to cosmetics, and the other two with an occupational background of food handling. The reaction index for shellac was 0.51 and the positivity ratio was 67.56% (95% CI, 52.48–82.65%). Conclusions Shellac appears to be a prevalent allergen in patients with suspected contact dermatitis related with cosmetics or foodstuff. However, further studies are needed to validate its use in other patients (AU)

In vitro evaluation of the cytotoxicity and eye irritation potential of preservatives widely used in cosmetics

Abstract The consumption of cosmetics has been increasing every year and is expected to reach $675 billion by 2020 at an estimated growth rate of 6.4% per year. Exposure to skin irritants is the major cause of non-immunological inflammation of the skin. Therefore, the safety evaluation of cosmetic preservatives should be increased. Thus, the present work aimed to evaluate the cytotoxicity as the viability endpoint and the eye irritation potential of preservatives used in cosmetics. Cytotoxicity assays were performed using MTT and NRU in human keratinocytes (HaCaT), human dermal fibroblasts, adult (HDFa), and human hepatoma cells (HepG2). The eye irritation potential was evaluated using the Hen's Egg Test-chorioallantoic membrane (HET-CAM). The evaluated preservatives were methylparaben (MP), propylparaben (PP), phenoxyethanol (PE), and a mixture of methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (CMI/MI). All preservatives showed cytotoxic potential within the permitted concentrations for use in cosmetic products. In the HET-CAM test, PE and CMI/MI, MP, and PP were classified as severe, moderate, and poor irritants, respectively. Our results indicate that proper safety evaluations are required to ensure the beneficial properties of preservatives on cosmetic products without exceeding exposure levels that would result in adverse health effects for consumers.

Compatibility and efficiency of preservatives in emulsive cosmetics containing high surfactant content

Abstract The objective of this study was to determine the influence of nonionic surfactants on the effectiveness of preservatives used in emulsions containing high surfactant content. Mixtures of different concentrations were prepared between polyethoxylated (40) hydrogenated castor oil (PHCO) and polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate (PSO), with methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and isobutylparaben (PMEPBI) blend, phenoxyethanol and benzoic acid (BP) blend, and phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol (PC) blend. Subsequently, the compatibility of the formulation ingredients and the effectiveness of the preservatives were evaluated by the challenge test. It was found that PHCO and PSO inactivated the antimicrobial action of methylparaben and PMEPBI. Paraben-free preservatives BP and PC had less influence on surfactants than systems containing parabens. When incorporated into microemulsions and nanoemulsions containing 40% and 20% surfactants, methylparaben and BP 0.2% and 0.5% were only effective against Aspergillus niger. The PMEPBI 0.2% was effective as a preservative in nanoemulsified formulations against A. niger, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus aureus. The results demonstrate that the efficacy of the preservative system in formulations containing nonionic surfactant excipients depends on the type of excipient, the components of the formulation, the preservative systems composition, the excipient to preservative ratio, and the availability in the formulation.

Óleo essencial de Pataqueira (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) como conservante natural em Cosméticos / Pataqueira essential oil (Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl.) as a natural preservative in cosmetics

Um dos principais grupos de conservantes utilizados na maioria dos cosméticos são os parabenos que em muitos estudos demonstraram que podem provocar reações alérgicas como dermatite de contato, entre outras sensibilizações cutâneas. A fim de minimizar esses problemas, a indústria está produzindo cosméticos livres de conservantes ou de origem natural e em associações aos sintéticos. Dentre os conservantes naturais utilizados, podemos citar os óleos essenciais como uma alternativa viável. Diante deste contexto o presente trabalho visa avaliar experimentalmente o potencial antimicrobiano do óleo essencial de Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl., conhecida popularmente como pataqueira, o efeito de sua associação com parabenos e de sua eficácia como conservante em bases cosméticas. A composição do óleo essencial foi avaliada, indicando que este é composto em sua maior parte por terpenos, tendo éter metílico do timol (39,2%), timol (33,8 %) e α-felandreno (15,9%) como compostos majoritários. A atividade antimicrobiana do óleo essencial e do timol foi acessada através da concentração inibitória mínima (CIM), cujos resultados em µg/mL para o óleo essencial e o timol foram respectivamente: Staphylococcus aureus 650,70 e 284,90, Escherichia coli 721,53 e 271,20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748,00 e > 2.000, Burkholderia cepacia 833,03 e 1.077,70, Candida albicans 521,43 e 172,61 e Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 e 400. O efeito sinérgico da associação do óleo essencial com os parabenos foi realizado através de um delineamento experimental centroide simplex para uma mistura de metilparabeno, propilparabeno e óleo essencial frente aos mesmos micro-organismos utilizados na determinação da atividade antimicrobiana. As concentrações ideais obtidas pela análise estatística para cada componente em µg/mL foram: 1120 para o metilparabeno, 350 para o propilparabeno e 675 para o óleo essencial. O teste de eficácia do sistema conservante em formulação cosmética foi efetuado empregando as concentrações ideais e mais duas concentrações superiores e uma abaixo do ideal. Para todas as cepas microbianas desafiadas o resultado do teste foi de redução total da carga microbiana inoculada nos sete dias de ensaio e nenhum aumento até o vigésimo oitavo dia o que demonstra a eficácia da associação do óleo essencial com os conservantes sintéticos. O óleo essencial de C. scoparioides apresentou um potencial antimicrobiano importante tanto sozinho como em associação com conservantes sintéticos. Estes resultados sugerem que esse óleo pode ser usado para compor um sistema conservante para formulações cosméticas contendo uma menor quantidade de sintéticos

One of the main groups of preservatives used in most cosmetics are parabens, that many studies have shown that they can cause allergic reactions such as contact dermatitis, among other skin sensitizations. To minimize these problems, the industry is producing cosmetics preservative free or using natural products instead and their combination with the synthetics. Among the natural preservatives used, we can mention essential oils as a viable alternative. In this context, the present work aims to experimentally evaluate the antimicrobial potential of the Conobea scoparioides Cham. & Schltdl. essential oil, popularly known as pataqueira, the effect of its association with parabens and its effectiveness as a preservative in cosmetic bases. The essential oil composition was analyzed, indicating that it is composed mostly of terpenes, with thymol methyl ether (39.2%), thymol (33.8%) and -phelandrene (15.9%) as major compounds. The antimicrobial activity of essential oil and thymol was accessed through the minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC), whose results in µg/mL for essential oil and thymol were respectively: Staphylococcus aureus 650.70 and 284.90, Escherichia coli 721, 53 and 271.20, Pseudomonas aeruginosa 1748.00 and > 2,000, Burkholderia cepacia 833.03 and 1,077.70, Candida albicans 521.43 and 172.61 and Aspergillus brasiliensis 300 and 400. The synergistic effect of the association of essential oil with parabens was performed through a centroid simplex experimental design for a mixture of methylparaben, propylparaben and essential oil against the same microorganisms used in the antimicrobial activity evaluation The ideal concentrations obtained by statistical analysis for each component in µg/mL were: 1120 for methylparaben, 350 for propylparaben and 675 for essential oil. The effectiveness test of the preservative system in cosmetic formulation was carried out using the ideal concentrations plus two higher concentrations and one below the ideal. For all challenged microbial strains, the test result was a total reduction of the inoculated microbial load in the seven days of testing and no increase until the twenty-eighth day, which demonstrates the effectiveness of the association of essential oil with synthetic preservatives. C. scoparioides essential oil showed an important antimicrobial potential both alone and in association with parabens. These results demonstrated that it can be used to compose a preservative system for cosmetic formulations containing lower amounts of synthetics

In vitro inhibitory potential of avocado fruits, Persea americana (Lauraceae) against oxidation, inflammation and key enzymes linked to skin diseases / Inhibidor potencial in vitro de frutos de aguacate, Persea americana (Lauraceae) contra la oxidación, inflamación y enzimas clave vinculadas a enfermedades de la piel

Abstract Introduction: Avocado (Persea americana Mill.) is a member of Lauraceae with one-seeded berry fruit and cultivated in all tropical, subtropical regions in the world and in the Southern coast region of Turkey. Oxidative damage caused by UV can trigger inflammation, resulting in serious inflammatory skin diseases including eczema, seborrheic dermatitis, hyperpigmentation and ageing. Enzyme inhibitors involved in melanogenesis, such as tyrosinase, have been used recently for hyperpigmentation and skin diseases in cosmetic products. Objective: This study aimed to evaluate the antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tyrosinase activities and total polyphenolic contents of the different parts of P. americana fruit. Methods: The fruit was divided into exocarp, mesocarp, seed, and then methanol and n-hexane extracts were prepared. DPPH and ABTS free radical scavenging capacities and inhibitory potentials on lipid peroxidation were determined to investigate the antioxidant potentials of the extracts. Anti-inflammatory activities of the extracts were evaluated by measuring the stabilization level of the human red blood cell membrane. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities of the samples were determined using mushroom tyrosinase. Results: In general methanol extracts possessed remarkable higher DPPH free radical scavenging activities than n-hexane extracts. The highest activity was determined in methanol extracts of seed (4.17 ± 0.04 mg/mL) followed by exocarp (5.25 ± 0.05 mg/mL). Overall methanol extracts possessed higher ABTS free radical scavenging activities than n-hexane extracts. The greatest ABTS free radical scavenging activity was obtained in methanol extracts of seed (0.03 ± 0.01 mg/mL). In the anti-lipid peroxidation assay, the greatest activity was noticed in methanol extracts of seed (7.71 ± 0.36 µg/mL) followed by exocarp (12.12 ± 0.34 µg/mL), while all n-hexane extracts were inactive. Overall methanol extracts exhibited higher anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties than n-hexane extracts. However, the maximum anti-tyrosinase activity was determined in n-hexane extracts of exocarp (0.40 ± 0.01 mg/mL) followed by seed (0.46 ± 0.01 mg/mL). Conclusions: These extracts are promising candidates for use as natural products-based antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in inflammation-related disease, and also anti-tyrosinase properties in dermatological applications.

Resumen Introducción: El aguacate (Persea americana Mill.) es un miembro de Lauraceae, es una baya de una semilla que se cultiva en todas las regiones tropicales y subtropicales del mundo y la región costera sur de Turquía. El daño oxidativo causado por los rayos ultravioleta puede desencadenar inflamación, lo que posteriormente da como resultado enfermedades inflamatorias graves de la piel como eccema, dermatitis seborreica, hiperpigmentación y envejecimiento. Los inhibidores de enzimas implicados en la melanogénesis, como la tirosinasa, se han utilizado recientemente para la hiperpigmentación y enfermedades de la piel en productos cosméticos. Objetivo: Evaluar las actividades antioxidantes, antiinflamatorias, antitirosinasas y los contenidos polifenólicos totales de las partes del fruto de P. americana. Métodos: El fruto se dividió en tres partes: exocarpio, mesocarpio y semilla, y se prepararon extractos de metanol y n-hexano. Se determinaron las capacidades de eliminación de radicales libres de DPPH y ABTS y los potenciales inhibidores sobre la peroxidación de lípidos para investigar los potenciales antioxidantes de los extractos. Las actividades antiinflamatorias de los extractos se evaluaron midiendo el nivel de estabilización de la membrana de los glóbulos rojos humanos. Las actividades inhibidoras de tirosinasa de las muestras se determinaron utilizando tirosinasa de hongos. Resultados: En general, los extractos de metanol poseían actividades de eliminación de radicales libres de DPPH notablemente más altas que los extractos de n-hexano. La actividad más alta se presentó en extractos metanólicos de semilla (4.17±0.04 mg/mL) seguido del exocarpio (5.25±0.05 mg/mL). En general, los extractos de metanol poseían una mayor actividad de eliminación de radicales libres ABTS que los extractos de n-hexano. La mayor actividad captadora de radicales libres de ABTS se obtuvo en extractos metanólicos de semilla (0.03±0.01 mg/mL). En el ensayo de anti-peroxidación lipídica, la mayor actividad se observó en los extractos metanólicos de semillas (7.71±0.36 µg/mL) seguidos del exocarpio (12.12±0.34 µg/mL), mientras que todos los extractos de n-hexano estaban inactivos. En general, los extractos de metanol exhibieron mayores propiedades anti-inflamatorias y antioxidantes que los extractos de n-hexano. Sin embargo, la actividad anti-tirosinasa máxima se determinó en extractos de exocarpio de n-hexano (0.40±0.01 mg/mL) seguido de semillas (0.46±0.01 mg/mL). Conclusiones: Estos extractos son candidatos prometedores como productos naturales debido a sus propiedades antioxidantes y antiinflamatorias para tratar enfermedades relacionadas con la inflamación, y también propiedades antitirosinasas en aplicaciones dermatológicas.

Alergia à Metilisotiazolinona: Relato de caso / Methylisothiazolinone Allergy: Case Report

A metilisotiazolinona (MI) é um conservante presente em produtos químicos de limpeza e cosméticos na forma isolada ou associada à metilclorotiazolinona (MCI/MI). Seu uso tem sido associado ao aumento progressivo de casos de dermatite alérgica de contato (DAC) no mundo, constituindo uma das principais causas dessa entidade. O diagnóstico padrão-ouro de DAC a essa substância é realizado pelo teste de contato. No Brasil, a bateria padrão contempla apenas o composto MCI/MI, não avaliando isoladamente a MI. Relatamos caso clínico de uma paciente com eczema crônico predominante em mãos, que possuía nexo ocupacional com utilização de produtos de limpeza, tendo apresentado teste de contato, através da bateria Latino-Americana, fortemente positivo (+++) à MI 0,2% e negativo para MCI/MI. Objetivamos demonstrar a importância da inclusão da metilisotiazolinona, de forma isolada, na bateria padrão brasileira para maior sensibilidade diagnóstica, além da necessidade de especificação da presença desse conservante em produtos de limpeza.

Methylisothiazolinone (MI) is a preservative present in cleaning and cosmetic products, in the isolated form or associated to methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI/MI). Its use has been associated with the progressive increase in cases of allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) in the world, constituting one of the main causes of this entity. The gold standard diagnosis of ACD for this substance is performed by the patch test. In Brazil, the baseline series only includes the MCI / MI compound, not evaluating the MI alone. We case report of a patient with predominant chronic eczema on the hands, who had an occupational nexus with the use of cleaning products, having presented a patch test, through the Latin American series, extremely positive for 0.2% MI (+++) and negative for the MCI/MI. We aim to demonstrate the importance of including methylisothialzoninone, in isolation, in the Brazilian baseline series for greater diagnostic sensitivity, in addition to the need to specify the presence of this preservative in products.

Collagen as a source of bioactive peptides: a bioinformatics approach

BACKGROUND: Collagen is the most abundant protein in animals and can be obtained from residues of the food industry. Its hydrolysate has many desirable properties that make it suitable as an additive in foods and cosmetics, or as a component of scaffold materials to be used in biomedicine. RESULTS: We report here the characterization of type I collagen from five different sources, namely bovine, porcine, chicken, trout and salmon, as well as their hydrolysates by means of bioinformatics tools. As expected, the results showed that bovine and porcine collagen, as well as trout and salmon collagen, can be used interchangeably due to their high identity. This result is consistent with the evolution of proteins with highly identical sequences between related species. Also, 156 sequences were found as potential bioactive peptides, 126 from propeptide region and 30 from the central domain, according to the comparison with reported active sequences. CONCLUSIONS: Collagen analysis from a bioinformatic approach allowed us to classify collagen from 5 different animal sources, to establish its interchangeability as potential additive in diverse fields and also to determine the content of bioactive peptides from its in silico hydrolysis.

In vitro cytotoxicity of chemical preservatives on human fibroblast cells

Preservatives are widely used substances that are commonly added to various cosmetic and pharmaceutical products to prevent or inhibit microbial growth. In this study, we compared the in vitro cytotoxicity of different types of currently used preservatives, including methylparaben, imidazolidinyl urea (IMU), and sodium benzoate, using the human newborn fibroblast cell line CCD1072Sk. Of the tested preservatives, only IMU induced a reduction in cell viability, as shown using the MTT assay and propidium iodide staining (IMU>methylparaben>sodium benzoate). IMU was shown to promote homeostatic alterations potentially related to the initiation of programed cell death, such as decreased mitochondrial membrane potential and caspase-3 activation, in the treated cells. Methylparaben and sodium benzoate were shown to have a very low cytotoxic activity. Taken together, our results suggest that IMU induces programed cell death in human fibroblasts by a canonical intrinsic pathway via mitochondrial perturbation and subsequent release of proapoptotic factors

In vitro UV absorption properties and radical scavenging capacity of Morella parvifolia (Benth. ) Parra-Os. extracts

The goal of this research was to identify major compounds of the aerial parts of M. parvifolia (Benth.) Parra-Os., that could enhance its possible application as additive in dermocosmetic products, as well as evaluate the antioxidant properties. The extracts agreed with the broad-spectrum UVB/UVA absorption detected and could act as broad-spectrum sunscreens, covering the UVA and UVB range. Methanolic extracts showed an important antiradical capacity (0.46 and 0.47 g/µmol DPPH), TPC (37.58 and 51.41mg GAE/g DS) and TAC (1.12 and 3.31 mg C3GE/g DS) in fruits and leaves, respectively. M. parvifolia could be considered as a prospective source of natural UV-radiation absorbers with antioxidant capacity. Although the results have clearly demonstrated the potential photoprotection capacity, more studies are needed to enhance its application as an additive in pharmaceutical and medicinal formulations.

Conocimiento de conservantes: crucial en Dermatología / Knowledge of Preservatives: A Key Competence in Dermatology

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Conservantes en productos de higiene y cosméticos, medicamentos tópicos y productos de limpieza doméstica en España / Preservatives in Personal Hygiene and Cosmetic Products, Topical Medications, and Household Cleaners in Spain

Introducción: Los conservantes se agregan a cosméticos, limpiadores domésticos y otros productos industriales para impedir el crecimiento de microorganismos. Desafortunadamente, pueden sensibilizar a usuarios expuestos. Material y métodos: Entre enero y junio de 2015 se analizaron las listas de los ingredientes de 2.300 productos de venta en España: 1.093 dermocosméticos, 458 productos de higiene, cosméticos y limpiadores domésticos de venta en supermercados, 636 medicamentos tópicos y 113 cosméticos de herbolario. Se evaluó la distribución de una amplia variedad de conservantes en las distintas categorías de productos. Resultados: Conservantes tales como el fenoxietanol, el ácido cítrico, el benzoato sódico y el sorbato potásico estuvieron ampliamente representados en todas las categorías de cosméticos. Se detectaron parabenos en el 16,1% de los dermocosméticos, el 14,45% de los cosméticos de supermercado, el 0,88% de los cosméticos de herbolario, el 5,18% de los medicamentos tópicos y ningún producto de limpieza. Se objetivaron isotiazolinonas en el 2,56% de los dermocosméticos, el 18% de los cosméticos de supermercado, el 7,9% de los cosméticos de herbolario, el 63,63% de los limpiadores domésticos y en ningún medicamento tópico. Contenían liberadores de formaldehído el 5,76% de los dermocosméticos, el 6,42% de los cosméticos de supermercado, el 7,96% de los cosméticos de herbolario, el 3,93% de los medicamentos tópicos y el 16,74% de los limpiadores. Conclusiones: La evaluación de la frecuencia de los conservantes en los productos de nuestro entorno permite una estimación indirecta del grado de exposición a cada uno de ellos. Se precisa impulsar medidas que conduzcan a una restricción en el uso de los conservantes más problemáticos (AU)

Introduction: Preservatives are added to cosmetic, household cleaning, and other industrial products to prevent the growth of microorganisms. Unfortunately, exposure to these substances can cause sensitization. Material and methods: Between January and June 2015, we analyzed the ingredients of 2300 products commercially available in Spain to identify the frequency of a wide variety of preservatives in different product categories. We analyzed 1093 skin care and cosmetic products sold exclusively in pharmacies (dermocosmetics), 458 household cleaning and personal hygiene and cosmetic products sold in supermarkets, 636 topical medications, and 113 cosmetic products sold in a herbal shop. Results: Phenoxyethanol, citric acid, sodium benzoate, and potassium sorbate were very common in all the cosmetic product categories. Parabens were present in 16.1% of dermocosmetic products, 14.45% of cosmetic products available in supermarkets, 0.88% of cosmetic products available in the herbal shop, 5.18% of topical medications, and in none of the cleaning products. Isothiazolinones were identified in 2.56% of dermocosmetic products, 18% of cosmetic products in supermarkets, 7.9% of cosmetic products in the herbal shop, 63.63% of household cleaners, and in none of the topical medications. Formaldehyde releasers were detected in 5.76% of dermocosmetic products, 6.42% of cosmetic products sold in supermarkets, 7.96% of cosmetic products sold in the herbal shop, 3.93% of topical medications, and 16.74% of household cleaners. Conclusions: Evaluation of the presence of preservatives in everyday products allows us to indirectly estimate exposure levels to each one. Measures restricting the use of the most problematic preservatives need to be strengthened (AU)

Historia y actualidad de productos para la piel, cosméticos y fragancias. Especialmente los derivados de las plantas / History and present of skin care products, cosmetics and fragrances. Especially those derived from plants

Objetivo: aportar notas históricas sobre el empleo de los recursos vegetales en la elaboración de productos para el cuidado de la piel y recoger hechos científicos que nos definen la actualidad del tema. Método: búsqueda bibliográfica a través de las bases de datos: Scopus, WOS, Google Scholar y The Plant List y otras web botánicas. Resultados y discusión: el cuidado de la piel y la cosmética forman parte de nuestra vida diaria, de ahí que el uso de preparados para este fin haya aumentado significativamente en los últimos años. A partir de una bibliografía reciente, citamos 78 taxa botánicos (algas, helechos y plantas con semilla, hongos incluidos) relacionados con hechos históricos y conocimientos científicos actuales. Conclusión: Los derivados de los vegetales se consideran seguros para la salud, suponen una gran fuente de metabolitos secundarios y han sido y son materia prima para la elaboración de productos que cuidan la piel

Objective: To provide historical information about the use of vegetal resources in the elaboration of skin care products and to show some scientific facts that define topicality of this subject. Method: bibliographic search through the databases: Scopus, WOS, Google Scholar, The Plant List and other botanicals webs. Results and discussion: skin care and cosmetics are part of our daily life; hence the use of products for this purpose has significantly increased in recent years. From a recent bibliography, we referred 78 botanical taxa (algae, ferns and seed plants, fungi including). The aforementioned we related to historical facts and current scientific knowledge. Conclusion: Derived from plants are considered safe for health; they are a great source of secondary metabolites and have been and are raw material for skin care manufactured products

Sistemas nanoestruturados contendo o óleo da polpa e da amêndoa da bocaiuva (Acrocomia aculeata) ( Jacq. ) Lodd. xx Mart. ): preparação e caracterização físico-química / Nanostructured systems containing the oil of the pulp and the almond of the bocaiuva (Acrocomia aculeata) ( Jacq. ) Lodd. Xx Mart. ): preparation and physical-chemical characterization

O fruto da bocaiúva pertence à família Palmae, espécie Acrocomia aculeata (Jacq.) Lodd.Ex Martius abundante e nativa no Estado do Mato Grosso do Sul, Pará, São Paulo e Minas Gerais. O óleo da polpa da fruta constitui de alto teor de ácidos graxos insaturados, com uma predominância de ácido oleico, chegando a 60% de sua composição e o óleo da amêndoa da bocaiúva apresenta além do oleico, aproximadamente 40% o ácido láurico (13%) e ácido palmítico (12,6%). O óleo da polpa é rico em fenóis totais (2,69 g por 100g de amostra), carotenóides (55mg eq ß- caroteno/100g de amostra) e possui alta atividade ORAC (283,93 µmol/g de amostra). Foram obtidos quatro novos sistemas nanoestruturados que estão apresentados a seguir com seus respectivos valores de potencial zeta e diâmetro médio: 1) carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo o óleo da polpa (-22,4 mV e 192,55 nm); 2) carreador lipídico nanoestruturado contendo o óleo da amêndoa (-23,95 mV e 227,75 nm); 3) nanopartículas poliméricas contendo o óleo da polpa (-47,5 mV e 127,70 nm) e 4) nanopartícula polimérica contendo o óleo da amêndoa da bocaiúva (-44,74 mV e 131,3 nm). O sistema nanoestruturado contendo o óleo de polpa de bocaiuva e o sistema contendo triglicérides de ácido cáprico e caprílico apresentaram a primeira concentração não-citotóxica igual a 0,098% (p/v). O sistema lipídico nanoestruturado contendo óleo de polpa de bocaiúva e os filtros químicos octocrileno e avobenzona revelou citotoxicidade maior quando comparado aos sistemas ipídicos nanoestruturados, isentos de filtros, conforme esperado. Os sistemas carreadores lipídicos nanoestruturados contendo o óleo da amêndoa e o óleo da polpa da bocaiuva quando adicionados na formulação base (FPS 14), em concentração de 20% p/p, apresentou aumento respectivamente de 92,8% e 35,7 % no FPS. Tais resultados demonstraram interação sinérgica entre a formulação fotoprotetora e o sistema lipídico nanoestruturado contendo o óleo de amêndoa. Dessa maneira, esse sistema carreador lipídico nanoestruturado, aditivado com os filtros químicos constitui inovação com aplicação industrial. A obtenção dos sistemas nanoestruturados proposto no presente projeto permitirá o desenvolvimento de uma nova plataforma nanotecnológica farmacêutica e cosmética contendo os óleos vegetais do fruto da bocaiúva, de maior segurança, eficácia e de elevado valor agregado

Acrocomia aculeata (Jacq.) Lodd. ex Martius, known as bocaiuva is an oleaginous species of the family Arecaceae, a widely distributed palm in America. Pulp and almond oils were extracted by cold-pressed method. The oil from the pulp is rich in phenolics (2.69 g per 100 g of sample), carotenoids (beta-carotene 55 mg eq / 100g sample) and has high ORAC activity (283.93 umol/g of sample). Four new nanostructured systems were obtained which are shown below with their respective values zeta potential and average diameter: 1) nanostructured lipid carrier containing the pulp oil (-22.4 mV and 192.55 nm); 2) nanostructured lipid carrier containing the almond oil (-23.95 mV and 227,75nm); 3) polymeric nanoparticles containing the pulp oil (-47.5 mV and 127,70nm) and 4) polymeric nanoparticle containing the almond oil (-44.74 mV and 131.3 nm). The nanostructured system containing the bocaiuva pulp oil and the system containing oil and capric caprylic triglyceride presented the first non-cytotoxic concentration equal to 0.098% (w/v). The nanostructured lipid system containing bocaiuva pulp oil and chemical filters octocrylene and avobenzone showed a higher cytotoxicity when compared to the nanostructured lipid systems, free of filters. The nanostructured lipid carriers systems containing bocaiuva almond oil and pulp oil when added to the base formulation (SPF 14), in a concentration of 20% (w/w), increased respectively 92.8% and 35.7% the SPF. These results demonstrated a synergic interaction between the sunscreen formulation and nanostructured lipid system containing almond oil. Thus, the lipid carrier system nanostructured, spiked with the chemical filters is innovation with industrial application. The obtaining nanostructured systems proposed in the present design will allow the development of a new pharmaceutical nanotechnology platform and cosmetics containing oils from the fruit of bocaiuva, increased safety, efficiency and high added value. Thus, bocaiuva pulp and almond oils present interesting composition, consistent for the use in pharmaceutical and cosmetic topical products due to its moisturizing, emollient and anti-aging potential properties

Aceite de argán: usos tradicionales, aspectos fitoquímicos, nutricionales y farmacológicos / Óleo de Argão: usos tradicionais, aspectos fito-químicos, nutricionais e farmacológicos / Argan oil: traditional uses, phytochemical, nutritional and pharmacological aspects

Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels es un árbol originario del suroeste de Marruecos de cuyo fruto se obtiene el aceite de argán, el cual ha sido utilizado tradicionalmente como alimento y como ingrediente cosmético. Los estudios referidos a los usos tradicionales muestran que este aceite es conocido fundamentalmente por sus propiedades nutricionales y por los efectos beneficiosos en la hidratación de la piel, retrasando el envejecimiento y la aparición de arrugas y otros trastornos dermatológicos. Los estudios fitoquímicos y farmacológicos revelan que tiene actividades beneficiosas dentro del ámbito de la dermatología, diabetes, enfermedades cardiovasculares y trastornos hormonales, validando de esta manera sus usos tradicionales y demostrando el gran potencial que tiene este aceite en salud humana. La presente revisión muestra investigaciones realizadas sobre el aceite de argán durante los últimos 15 años y que han sido recopiladas a través de las bases de datos Pubmed y Web of Science (AU)

Argania spinosa é uma árvore nativa do sudoeste de Marrocos, de cujos frutos se obtém o óleo de argão que tem sido usado tradicionalmente como alimento e ingrediente cosmético. Os estudos relacionados com os usos tradicionais mostram que este óleo é conhecido principalmente pelas suas propriedades nutricionais e pelos efeitos benéficos sobre a hidratação da pele, retardando o envelhecimento e o aparecimento de rugas e outros problemas dermatológicos. Os estudos fitoquímicos e farmacológicos mostram que tem actividades benéficas no campo da dermatologia, diabetes, doenças cardiovasculares e distúrbios hormonais, validando assim os seus usos tradicionais e demonstrando o grande potencial deste óleo para a saúde hu-mana. Esta revisão mostra os resultados de uma pesquisa efectuada nas bases de dados PubMed e Web of Science sobre artigos relativos ao óleo de argão, publicados nos últimos 15 anos

The fruit of Argania spinosa (L.) Skeels, a tree native to southern Morocco, is used to obtain argan oil, which has been traditionally used as food as well as a cosmetic ingredient. Studies on its traditional uses show that this oil is mainly known by its nutritional properties and beneficial effects in skin hydration delaying ageing, the appearance of skin wrinkles and other skin disorders. Phytochemical and pharmacological reports have revealed that argan oil exerts interesting properties in the fields of dermatology, diabetes, metabolic, cardiovascular, and hormonal disorders, which support its traditional uses to a certain extent and demonstrate the potential of the oil in human health. This paper reviews the research of last 15 years on argan oil reported in the literature indexed in PubMed and Web of Science (AU)

Increasing antibiotic resistance in preservative-tolerant bacterial strains isolated from cosmetic products

To ensure the microbiological quality, consumer safety and organoleptic properties of cosmetic products, manufacturers need to comply with defined standards using several preservatives and disinfectants. A drawback regarding the use of these preservatives is the possibility of generating cross-insusceptibility to other disinfectants or preservatives, as well as cross resistance to antibiotics. Therefore, the objective of this study was to understand the adaptive mechanisms of Enterobacter gergoviae, Pseudomonas putida and Burkholderia cepacia that are involved in recurrent contamination in cosmetic products containing preservatives. Diminished susceptibility to formaldehyde-donors was detected in isolates but not to other preservatives commonly used in the cosmetics industry, although increasing resistance to different antibiotics (β-lactams, quinolones, rifampicin, and tetracycline) was demonstrated in these strains when compared with the wild-type strain. The outer membrane protein modifications and efflux mechanism activities responsible for the resistance trait were evaluated. The development of antibiotic-resistant microorganisms due to the selective pressure from preservatives included in cosmetic products could be a risk for the emergence and spread of bacterial resistance in the environment. Nevertheless, the large contribution of disinfection and preservation cannot be denied in cosmetic products (AU)

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Dermatitis alérgica de contacto a cosméticos / Allergic Contact Dermatitis Caused by Cosmetic Products

La dermatitis de contacto por cosméticos es un problema dermatológico frecuente, creciente, con un gran impacto en la calidad de vida de los pacientes que lo padecen y con un importante coste invertido en la búsqueda de estrategias diagnósticas, terapéuticas y de prevención. Su prevalencia se ha estimado entre el 2 y el 4% de las consultas dermatológicas, y aproximadamente el 60% de los casos son de causa alérgica. Los productos de higiene e hidratación cutánea son los responsables de la mayoría de los casos, seguidos de los cosméticos ungueales y capilares. Las fragancias son la causa más frecuente de alergia a cosméticos, seguidos de los conservantes y los tintes capilares; pero todos los componentes, incluyendo los ingredientes naturales, deben ser considerados como potenciales sensibilizantes. A lo largo de este trabajo se detallarán los datos relevantes de los alérgenos más frecuentes de los productos cosméticos: fragancias, conservantes, antioxidantes, excipientes, surfactantes, humectantes y emulsificantes, ingredientes naturales, tintes capilares, fotoprotectores y cosméticos ungueales

Contact dermatitis due to cosmetic products is a common dermatologic complaint that considerably affects the patient’s quality of life. Diagnosis, treatment, and preventive strategies represent a substantial cost. This condition accounts for 2% to 4% of all visits to the dermatologist, and approximately 60% of cases are allergic in origin. Most cases are caused by skin hygiene and moisturizing products, followed by cosmetic hair and nail products. Fragrances are the most common cause of allergy to cosmetics, followed by preservatives and hair dyes; however, all components, including natural ingredients, should be considered potential sensitizers. We provide relevant information on the most frequent allergens in cosmetic products, namely, fragrances, preservatives, antioxidants, excipients, surfactants, humectants, emulsifiers, natural ingredients, hair dyes, sunscreens, and nail cosmetics

Actualización en la dermatitis de contacto alérgica por metilcloroisotiazolinona/metilisotiazolinona y metilisotiazolinona / Update on Allergic Contact Dermatitis Due to Methylchloroisothiazolinone/Methylisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone

La combinación de metilcloroisotiazolinona (MCI) con metilisotiazolinona (MI) es ampliamente empleada como conservante tanto en productos de higiene y domésticos como industriales. Desde 2005 está permitido el uso de MI a 100 ppm en cosméticos. En los últimos años se está detectando un aumento considerable de los casos de dermatitis de contacto a los 2 conservantes, por lo que es necesaria una monitorización estrecha por parte de las autoridades y probablemente unas medidas legislativas más estrictas. De hecho, MI a 2000 ppm se ha incluido recientemente en la batería estándar Europea. La forma de presentación clínica es muy variable, y en ocasiones es difícil sospechar una alergia a MCI/MI y MI. MCI/MI se testa en la batería estándar del GEIDAC a 100 ppm, pero con esta concentración se podría estar dejando de diagnosticar hasta la mitad de los casos. Además, según nuestros datos MCI/MI a 200 ppm permite diagnosticar más casos con alergia a MI. Para llegar a un buen diagnóstico consideramos que se debería aumentar la concentración del parche de MCI/MI a 200 ppm e incluir MI en la batería estándar del GEIDAC

The combination of methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) and methylisothiazolinone (MI) is widely used as a preservative in cosmetics, household, and industrial products. Furthermore, MI at a concentration of 100 ppm has been permitted in cosmetic products since 2005. Recently, a considerable increase in cases of contact dermatitis to both MCI and MI have been noted, and this warrants closer monitoring by relevant authorities and, probably, stricter legislation. In fact, MI at a test concentration of 2000 ppm was recently included in the European baseline patch test series. The clinical manifestations of allergy to MCI/MI and MI are highly variable and diagnosis is often missed. In the standard patch test series of the Spanish Contacto Dermatitis and Skin Allergy Research Group (GEIDAC), MCI/MI is tested at 100 ppm, but at this concentration, up to 50% of cases might go undetected. Furthermore, our data indicate that MCI/MI at 200 ppm would make it possible to diagnose more cases of contact allergy to MI. To improve the diagnosis of contact allergy to MCI/MI and MI, we believe that the test concentration of MCI/MI should be increased to 200 ppm in the GEIDAC standard series and that MI should be added in the GEIDAC standard series

Estudio descriptivo de la sensibilización a metilcloroisotiazolinona/metilisotiazolinona en una unidad de alergia cutánea / Descriptive Study of Sensitization to Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone in a Skin Allergy Unit

INTRODUCCIÓN: La metilcloroisotiazolinona (MCI) y la metilisotiazolinona (MI) son compuestos heterocíclicos que se emplean como conservantes en cosméticos y en productos industriales. Actualmente continúan siendo alérgenos frecuentes con tasas de sensibilización que están en torno al 2-4% de los pacientes a los que se les realizan pruebas epicutáneas. MATERIAL Y MÉTODOS: Se realizó una búsqueda de todos los casos de sensibilización a MCI/MI y MI diagnosticados de enero de 1980 hasta marzo del 2013 utilizando la base de datos de la sección de alergia cutánea. RESULTADOS: Se realizaron pruebas epicutáneas con la mezcla MCI/MI a 8.705 pacientes y la MI aislada a 404 pacientes. Se identificaron 222 pacientes (2,55%) con sensibilización a MI/MCI y 21 pacientes (5,19%) con sensibilización a MI. En cuanto a MCI/MI, se observó un primer pico de incidencia de la sensibilización entre los a˜nos 1998 y 2005 y un segundo pico desde 2009 hasta 2013. Ciento cuarenta y dos eran mujeres (64%) y 49 hombres (36%), con una edad media de 43 años. La localización más frecuente fueron las manos (54%), seguidas de los brazos (36%) y la cara (35%). La principal fuente de sensibilización fueron los cosméticos (75,67%), mientras que las pinturas representaron la fuente de sensibilización en el 2,25% de los pacientes. En la MI 12 eran mujeres (57%) y 9 hombres (43%), con una edad media de 50 años. La localización de las lesiones más frecuente fue la cara (71%), seguido de los brazos (38%) y las manos (29%). La fuente de sensibilización en todos los pacientes fueron los cosméticos. CONCLUSIONES: Los datos de nuestro estudio demuestran un incremento en la prevalencia de la sensibilización a la MCI/MI y MI en los últimos años. Parece necesaria la incorporación del parche con MI en la batería estándar a una concentración todavía no establecida

BACKGROUND: Methylchloroisothiazolinone (MCI) and methylisothiazolinone (MI) are heterocyclic compounds used as preservatives in cosmetic and industrial products. They continue to be common allergens, causing positive patch test reactions in 2% to 4% of patients tested. MATERIAL AND METHODS: We searched the database at our skin allergy unit for all cases of sensitization to MCI/MI and MI diagnosed between January 1980 and March 2013. RESULTS: Patch tests were performed with MCI/MI in 8705 patients and with MI in 404 patients. In total, 222 patients (2.55%) were sensitized to MCI/MI and 21 (5.19%) were sensitized to MI. The incidence of MCI/MI cases peaked between 1998 and 2005 and again between 2009 and 2013. Of the 222 patients with MCI/MI sensitization, 142 were women (64%) and 49 were men (36%); the mean age was 43 years. The most frequently affected areas were the hands (54% of cases), the arms (36%), and the face (35%); 75.67% of cases were due to cosmetics and 2.25% were due to paint. Of the 21 patients with MI sensitization (mean age, 50 years), 12 were women (57%) and 9 were men (43%). The most common site of involvement in this group was the face (71% of cases), followed by the arms (38%) and the hands (29%). All the cases were due to cosmetics. CONCLUSIONS: Our data show that sensitization to the combination of MCI and MI and MI alone has increased in recent years. It would appear to be necessary to add MI to the baseline patch test series, although the test concentration has yet to be determined